PeptiDerm15

1. Clinical study at 1 g/day by Kim D.-U. et al. (2018)

1.1 Significant improvement in skin hydration

1.2 Visible reduction of wrinkles

1.3 Improvement in skin elasticity

2. Preclinical study by Pyun H.-B. et al. (2012)

2.1 Significant decrease in UV-induced wrinkles

2.2 Improvement in skin hydration and barrier function

2.3 Preservation of collagen fibers and reduction of the enzymes responsible for their degradation

2.4 Improvement in skin elasticity

This is a randomized, double-blind, controlled clinical study.

The objective was to evaluate the effects of oral supplementation with PeptiDerm15 on hydration, elasticity, and wrinkles.

The study included 64 women aged 40 to 60 presenting with UV-aged skin and wrinkles around the eye contour (crow's feet).

Participants were randomly divided into two groups:

• a placebo group,
• a group receiving 1 g/day of PeptiDerm15.

The supplementation period was 12 weeks, with assessments at 0, 6, and 12 weeks.

Researchers used several instrumental and clinical methods to evaluate the product's effects:

• skin hydration measured by Corneometer®,
• wrinkle analysis by Visiometer® and dermatological evaluation,
• skin elasticity by Cutometer®.

Product safety was also monitored through biological analyses and the recording of adverse effects.

Participants supplemented with PeptiDerm15 showed a significant increase in skin hydration as early as 6 weeks (7.23 times higher than the placebo) (Figure 2).

After 12 weeks of supplementation, dermatologists observed a significant improvement in wrinkles around the eye contour in the PeptiDerm15 group (Figure 3).

Instrumental analyses also showed a significant reduction in wrinkle depth (10.5 times lower than the placebo group) and a decrease in skin roughness (Figure 4).

After 12 weeks of PeptiDerm15 supplementation, skin elasticity was significantly improved compared to the placebo (Figure 5).

Conclusion: This randomized, double-blind clinical study shows that daily supplementation with PeptiDerm15 at a dose of 1 g/day significantly improves several markers of skin aging from 6 weeks in women with UV-aged skin.

The results highlight:

• an increase in skin hydration,
• an improvement in elasticity,
• and a visible reduction in wrinkles.

This is an in vivo preclinical study conducted on a hairless mouse model (SKH-1) exposed to UVB rays to replicate the mechanisms of skin photoaging. The researchers' objective was to evaluate the effects of oral supplementation with PeptiDerm15 collagen (containing 15% of CTP tripeptides) on UV-induced skin damage.

Twenty female mice were divided into four groups:

• healthy control group,
• UVB-exposed group without supplementation,
• two UVB-exposed groups supplemented with PeptiDerm15 at different doses:
• 167 mg/kg/day (CTP-167),
• 333 mg/kg/day (CTP-333).

Supplementation was administered daily for 14 weeks, alongside UVB exposure three times a week.

UVB exposure caused significant wrinkle formation in non-supplemented animals (Figure 6). In contrast, mice receiving PeptiDerm15 showed a significant reduction:

• in the number of wrinkles,
• their depth,
• their length,
• as well as the total wrinkled area.

UVB rays severely damaged the skin's barrier function, leading to a decrease in hydration (Figure 7.A) and an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (Figure 7.B).

PeptiDerm15 supplementation significantly increased skin hydration, reduced TEWL, and thus improved the skin barrier function (with a dose-dependent effect).

The researchers emphasize that this improvement in the skin barrier directly contributes to reducing the visible signs of aging.

Histological analyses showed that UVB caused significant degradation of dermal collagen fibers. In animals supplemented with PeptiDerm15, collagen fibers were clearly better preserved.

Furthermore, the hydroxyproline level (a marker of collagen content) was also increased in the supplemented groups (Figure 8), suggesting a better preservation of skin collagen.

The study also shows that PeptiDerm15 significantly reduces the expression of MMP-3 and MMP-13 enzymes (Figure 9), as well as the activity of MMP-2 and MMP-9 (Figure 10).

These enzymes play a major role in photo-induced skin aging because they degrade the collagen and elastin fibers present in the dermis.

The authors thus conclude that PeptiDerm15 helps limit UVB-induced collagen destruction.

Supplemented mice also showed an improvement in skin elasticity (Figure 11), accompanied by a decrease in abnormal elastic fibers generated by UVB exposure.

According to the researchers, this effect is linked to better integrity of the dermal matrix and protection of the skin's support structures.

Conclusion: This preclinical study demonstrates that oral supplementation with PeptiDerm15 helps protect the skin against the effects of UVB-induced photoaging.

The results highlight:

• a visible reduction in wrinkles,
• an improvement in skin hydration and elasticity,
• a better barrier function,
• as well as the preservation of dermal collagen through the inhibition of the enzymes responsible for its degradation.

General Information:

Collagen is a general-purpose food ingredient included in Annex III, Section XV of Regulation (EC) No 853/2004, which lays down specific hygiene rules for food of animal origin.

Due to a history of use of collagen prior to May 15, 1997, Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 on novel foods does not apply. Therefore, PeptiDerm15 can be used as an ingredient in food or included in the formulation of dietary supplements.

Collagen is authorized in France for use in dietary supplements through mutual recognition (Article 16 of Decree No 2006-352).

PeptiDerm15 comes as a white to pale yellow powder, with a slight marine odor and taste.

Capsule format, a true innovation: The marine notes of collagen powder can be highly unpleasant to the taste when consumed in this format. Thanks to its proven efficacy, the recommended dose of PeptiDerm15 is only 1 g per day, which unlocks this new capsule delivery format. This approach represents a real innovation, as it allows the required dose to be easily incorporated while fully masking the marine notes of the active ingredient.

Thanks to this low usage dose, PeptiDerm15 offers great flexibility for your product developments targeting skin beauty and healthy aging.

1. Pending Health Claims ("On Hold")

2. Usable Beauty Claims for Collagen

Collagen is the subject of several health claim applications listed in the European Register of Health Claims. These claims have not yet been evaluated by EFSA but belong to the category of "on hold" claims.

In accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1924/2006 on nutrition and health claims made on foods, these claims may continue to be used under the responsibility of business operators in certain Member States until a final decision is adopted.

Pending claims related to collagen:

• Contributes to maintaining skin firmness and elasticity
• Contributes to maintaining skin structure and elasticity
• Helps the skin preserve its firmness and elasticity

To date, no European regulation officially defines beauty claims applicable to dietary supplements.

This category of claims relies on the interpretation of Regulation (EC) No 1924/2006 and the distinction between:

• claims referring to a physiological function (health claims)
• claims relating to appearance or aesthetic characteristics (beauty claims)

The DGCCRF (French Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control) specifies, particularly in a FAQ Question 16, that certain claims related to beauty, skin elasticity, or the appearance of wrinkles can be considered beauty claims when they do not refer to a physiological mechanism and are properly substantiated.

Furthermore, Food Supplements Europe (FSE), the European association for the food supplement sector, has published guidelines dedicated to the scientific substantiation of beauty claims. These indicate that claims related to skin beauty, wrinkles, firmness, or elasticity can be used when supported by appropriate clinical studies.

Usable beauty claims for PeptiDerm15 according to the FSE:

Clinical studies conducted on PeptiDerm15 have shown significant benefits starting from 1 g/day after 6 to 12 weeks of supplementation.

Skin Hydration

• "Improves skin hydration"
• "Contributes to better hydrated skin"
• "Promotes a hydrated skin appearance"

Skin Firmness

• "Improves skin firmness"
• "Contributes to firmer skin"

Skin Elasticity

• "Improves skin elasticity"
• "Contributes to more supple skin"

Wrinkle Appearance

• "Visibly reduces the appearance of wrinkles"
• "Helps smooth the appearance of the skin"

Overall Beauty

• "Contributes to skin beauty"
• "Promotes younger-looking skin"
• "Contributes to smoother and more radiant skin"